Choosing the right curl is one of the most impactful decisions you make in a lash set. The correct curl for a client's eye shape and natural lash type can open the eye, create lift where there isn't any, and make the set look polished and intentional.
Start with the natural lash angle
Before you think about eye shape, assess the client's natural lash angle. As a general principle: match the curl to the natural lash angle plus the lift the client wants. If naturals grow straight with no curl, a C curl restores a normal appearance. CC or D creates visible lift.
⚠️ Never place a weaker curl on a lash that already curves up — lashes will sit low and flat. Never place a very strong curl on a naturally straight lash without checking the bond — a gap between extension and natural lash is a retention problem waiting to happen.
By eye shape — quick guide
- Almond: Most curls work. C and CC are both excellent standard choices.
- Round: Aim to elongate rather than further open. Cat-eye mapping with C or CC.
- Hooded: CC and D are the go-to curls. Extensions need to clear the fold to be visible. Avoid J or B — insufficient lift.
- Monolid: L and L+ curls are specifically designed for this shape. The flat base maximises bond on very straight lashes.
- Deep-set: Moderate curl — C to CC. Keep lengths conservative.
- Downturned: Longer outer lengths and CC to D at the outer section creates a subtle lifting effect.
- Close-set: Keep inner corners short. Build length and volume from the mid-eye outward.
Stock popular lash types C & D, as these are the types you will use the most. Browse our range of — C & D lash trays and more, across every diameter and length.
🎯 Reference your before-and-after photos. Note what worked on each eye shape and what you'd change. Curl selection becomes one of the quieter but most valuable skills in your repertoire.
